Do you know your hair type? There are 12 unique types, and knowing your hair type is crucial information when choosing hair products and managing day-to-day care for healthy hair. 

At Church Barber, we see a diverse group of heads each week, covering all sexes, ages, and races, giving us real expertise on the topic of various hair types and how they react to different care and styling products. Aligning your hair type to the right hair care needs and the appropriate products is not exactly common knowledge, and when you've got it wrong, it leads to problems from dryness and frizz to lack of definition and scalp issues. It's also the number one reason that certain hair products don't work for you - because your hair type is a mismatch for the product. 

In this guide, we’ll help you identify your hair type and share the best way to care for and style your unique hair. We’ve arranged the guide into two sections: 1) hair type classification, and 2) hair care and styling product recommendations by hair type. We've also got help from three senior members of the Church Barber team, Brandon Faulk, Jasmine Diederichs, and Olivia Gomez, who will weigh in with pro tips throughout.

Caring for your specific hair type starts with understanding how the types are classified. Hair types are based on two main characteristics: curl pattern and texture. Broken down by category, the patterns and textures are as follows:

Curl Patterns

• Type 1 (Straight Hair): Flat and sleek with no curl.

• Type 2 (Wavy Hair): Forms a loose wave pattern, not as curly as “curly” hair but not completely straight either.

• Type 3 (Curly Hair): Has well-defined curls that range from loose ringlets to tighter corkscrews.

• Type 4 (Kinky/Coily Hair): Very tight, often zigzag-shaped curls or coils. Can be very dense or fine.

Textures

• Type A (Fine): Thin and soft to the touch, but can be easily prone to breakage.

• Type B (Medium): A balance between softness and strength, this type can handle many styles without feeling weighed down.

• Type C (Coarse): The toughest feeling of the textures, it generally has the most volume and appears thicker than the other types. Can be prone to frizzing.

By combining your curl pattern and texture types, you can identify your specific hair type subcategory, which can give you even more insights into how to best care for your hair. For example, if your hair is wavy but fine and barely holds its shape, it’s likely Type 2A. If you have more pronounced wavy hair with some frizz, you're probably closer to Type 2B. If you have very tight curly, coarse hair, that’s called 4C.

The following definitions can help you differentiate between the 12 subcategories:

• Straight:

  • 1A: Super straight, flat, and very fine.

  • 1B: Still straight, but with more volume and thickness than 1A.

  • 1C: Straight but with a more noticeable texture. It may have a slight bend or wave.

• Wavy:

  • 2A : Slight wave, very soft and fine.

  • 2B : More defined waves, often slightly frizzy.

  • 2C : Thick, wavy hair that may form loose curls in certain areas.

• Curly:

  • 3A : Loose, soft curls.

  • 3B : Tighter, more defined curls with some volume.

  • 3C : Very tight, corkscrew curls.

• Kinky/Coily:

  • 4A : Soft, well-defined curls.

  • 4B : Less defined, more angular curls.

  • 4C : Extremely tight, dense coils with little to no curl definition.

If you’re still unsure about your exact hair type, hair experts (like our team at Church Barber) can help you out.

Knowing your hair’s density and sebum level is also useful to know in order to best care for your hair, in combination with its curl pattern and texture. Density refers to how full the hair appears on your scalp, while the amount of sebum present in the hair (produced by the sebaceous glands on your scalp) determines whether it feels too dry, too oily, or just right.

Density

• High: Feels and looks thicker and fuller (very little scalp is visible).

• Low: Appears thinner or more sparse with the scalp being easily visible.

Oiliness/Dryness

• Dry Hair: Feels brittle, lacks moisture due to a lack of sebum, and might be frizzy or rough to the touch. If your hair is regularly dry, there are specific steps to take to remedy dry hair . Experts like Church barber Jasmine Diederichs also recommend limiting heat exposure because “excessive use of flat irons, curling irons, and blow dryers can make dryness worse.”

• Medium Hair: Neither dry nor overly saturated with oils, this hair type is the easiest to manage.

• Oily Hair: Feels greasy or heavy, especially at the roots. It can appear shiny and limp. Oily hair indicates an excess of sebum and may require more frequent washing or oil-absorbing products.

“Straight hair gets oily quicker because the natural oils travel down the hair shaft faster, while in curly hair, sebum takes longer to travel down the hair shaft,” explains Jasmine. “Coily, kinky textures generally are the quickest to get dried out, because the oil travels the slowest.” These factors are particularly important to consider when deciding how frequently (or infrequently) to shampoo your hair.

You can determine your hair type on your own by following these steps:

• Step 1 - Sebum Check: Before washing, check the amount of sebum present in your hair after an average day. Does it feel dry / thirsty, more on the greasy side, or somewhere in the middle?

• Step 2 - Wash: Church barber Olivia Gomez recommends “scrubbing your scalp and hair in a circular motion 3-5 times before rinsing.” Afterward, wash your hair as normal and allow it to air dry. Do not put any products in it.

• Step 3 - Curl Check: Once dry, observe your hair’s curl pattern based on the definitions mentioned above (types 1-4). Is it straight, wavy, curly, or coily?

• Step 4 - Thickness Check: Take a single strand of your hair and compare it to a sewing thread. If the strand feels smaller or thinner than the thread, it’s what is called "fine" hair. If the strand feels thicker in width as the thread (or even thicker), it's "thick" hair. If you can split the difference, it's safe to say that you have medium textured hair.

• Step 5 - Density Check: Using a fine tooth comb, part your hair both down the middle and in several other places. If your scalp is hardly visible as you continue to spot check, you have high density hair, while more scalp visibility means you have low density hair. For help with further analysis, check out our guide to thinning hair. 

Once you’ve identified your hair type, you can follow our expert's tips to ensure your hair looks and feels its best.

Haircut frequency can be the difference between lifeless hair, and hair that is full of volume, movement, and "life".

“Clients with shorter hairstyles should come in every 4-6 weeks to maintain shape, while longer hairstyles should come every 6-8 weeks,” says Jasmine. “Anything beyond that can make hair feel heavy and dull. Getting a trim and layering will revamp the hair and give it more life.”

“Asking your barber or stylist to cut texture into your hair” can help to revitalize it as well – particularly for straighter or finer hair types – adds Church barber Brandon Faulk. 

Frequency: 

The key point to remember, when considering how often to wash your hair, is that "when your hair feels extra oily, that's your sign to wash it, so 'listen' to your hair, says Olivia.

Fine, straight hair gets oily quicker than thick and/or curly hair, because the oil your scalp secretes travels down the hair more easily on fine, straight hair. Thus, fine hair can be washed 4 to 5 times per week (or more), while thicker hair should be washed less frequently, as little as once per week (or even less if your hair doesn't feel it's necessary).

Washing out styling products:

People often ask us, "can your pomades be washed out with just water?" (without shampoo). This is asked frequently for a few reasons: 1) Comedogenic concerns, or fear that leaving products in over time (especially while sleeping) will lead to acne breakouts, scalp irritation, pore blocking, etc. 2) If you need shampoo to wash the products out of your hair, you run the risk of shampooing too frequently. 3) Many pomades are oil-based, which means they're a real pain to wash out.

Addressing the first concern first, we agree that synthetic styling products that contain harmful ingredients, e.g.,comedogenic (pore blocking), endochrine distruptors (hormone blocking), etc., should be washed out daily, and in our opinion, should not be used, period. Second, it is correct that the problem with cheap, synthetic products is further compounded by the need to shampoo daily, which can cause dry hair. Lastly (answering the question), while natural products that are good for hair and scalp (like ours), don't need to be washed out daily, yes, Church California styling products can be washed out with just water, because they are water-based, not oil-based. However, again, washing them out isn't entirely necessary; you can sleep with them in your hair without fear that they will cause breakouts, etc., because they are 100% botanical, plant-made products that are good for you! Further, when when washing with just water, it's actually not a problem if trace amounts are left behind; it's a good way to stretch the product's usefulness between washes as you'll find you need a little less product that day for styling purposes. 

Fine and/or Thinning Hair Types

Using a high quality shampoo and conditioner helps maintain the health and appearance of your hair. A thickening shampoo like our rice water shampoo bar is great for those with hair types that are fine and/or thinning, as it adds density and fullness. 

Wavy Hair Types

Using sulfate-free hair care products is especially important for wavy hair to mitigate dryness and the potential for frizz. Sulfates - cleansers that are "effective" but super drying and often found in name-brand shampoos - can also cause your natural waves to lose their luster and definition.

Curly, Coily and/or Thicker Hair Types

For thicker hair types, in addition to avoiding sulfates, Jasmine stresses the importance of “using a clarifying shampoo*, or apple cider vinegar rinse (1 part ACV and 4 parts water) about once a month to remove excess buildup from products, oils, and minerals from hard water.” 

**We are currently in the final stages of testing our forthcoming "Clarifying Shampoo Bar", made specifically for thicker and/or curly hair types. Please email us if you're interested in trying and providing feedback: info@churchcalifornia.com**

While coily hair should be washed with shampoo less often than fine hair, to allow the sebum to build up, it does also require more in the way of upkeep. “Caring for coily hair involves keeping it moisturized, minimizing breakage, and maintaining its natural curl pattern and texture,” says Jasmine, “adding a deep conditioner treatment once or twice a week will replenish the hair and also prevent hair breakage.”

When it comes to caring for your curly or coily hair at nighttime, Brandon suggests that you “consider protecting your hair while sleeping.” Silk or satin pillowcases can help prevent damage, frizz, and help retain moisture, and for braids or waves, “a silk head wrap will keep the hair smooth, laid and intact,” says Olivia.

Remedies for Dry Hair

Dry hair can be a problem for all hair types, but it's most common in curlier hair because it’s more difficult for the natural oils (sebum) to reach the ends of the hair strands. In addition to using the appropriate shampoo and conditioner and not shampoo'ing too frequently (less often than fine/straight hair), you can also remedy your dry hair using plant oils.

Food quality oils like coconut oil, sweet almond oil, avocado oil, and olive oil are rich in vitamin E and fatty acids that help to strengthen delicate and dry hair. Coconut and almond oil can be applied as a leave-in conditioner for a few hours or even overnight, before rinsing out as normal. Olive oil can be massaged into your hair and then covered with warm towel for about 15 minutes. Note: it’s important not to overdo it with the amount of oil – a couple of tablespoons is usually plenty so as to not weigh your hair down with too much product that will be hard to wash out.

Essential oils like tea tree, eucalyptus, and lavender are also good for your hair, and can be used in conjunction with a carrier oil like argan, jojoba or castor oil. The recommended amount to use is about 2 tablespoons, with 3-5 drops of the essential oil for every 1 tablespoon of carrier oil.

When it comes to using styling products, it’s important to remember that they are not one size fits all. Each pomade we make at Church California was created to serve a specific need and associated hair type, learned from years at Church Barber experiencing first-hand our customers unique needs. All three barbers concur that styling products with natural, non-synthetic ingredients  are the best to use to ensure great looking hair without sacrificing its health. The more straightforward and easy to understand the label reads, the better.

Fine and/or Thinner Hair Types

Straight, fine hair can use pretty much any product, with different results depending on hold type. On straight or fine hair that has difficulty maintaining volume, “blow-drying and using a volumizing product like Church Volcanic Clay can add a feeling of thickness to the hair,” Brandon suggests. “The bentonite clay in the Volcanic Clay is intentionally drying (remember, fine hair gets oily easier), and gives fine, thin hair volume and texture, while creating a natural, no-shine look that lasts the day,” adds Jasmine.

Fine, straight hair types may also look to the Sun Wax Pomade for a style that requires a strong hold to take a shape that would otherwise be unnatural, or to the low-hold Coastal Creme for a natural look with volume. 

Wavy Hair Types

Church’s Coastal Creme Pomade is a nice touch for all hair types, but may be particularly agreeable with those who have type 2 hair and prefer a low-effort look that enhnances their natural waves. It can also be used as a *pre-styler in conjunction with something that has a bit more hold to it, like the Sun Wax Pomade. 

*Many customers cocktail our products together (the Clay and Creme are a very popular combo), and we often see barbers and stylist first using the Coastal Creme to create the style, and then the Sun Wax to lock things in place.  

Curly/Coily and/or Thicker Hair Types

When styling type 3 or 4 textured hair, be sure to detangle gently, and always brush the hair when it’s well moisturized and damp to prevent breakage, using a wide-tooth comb or even your fingers.

“For coily, kinky hair, you should avoid oil-based products, and instead seek water-based styling products to keep moisture in the hair,” says Brandon. One such example is Church’s Coastal Creme Pomade, which “is like a hair lotion and leave-in conditioner in one that brings instant and long-lasting hydration to the hair,” says Jasmine. “It’s also great on mid-to-long hair lengths that need added moisture, or for people who like to be able to run their fingers through their hair.”

Those with the thickest hair types may find styling more difficult to maintain throughout the day due to their hair’s more stubborn nature. For this, Jasmine recommends a product like our Sun Wax Pomade for a strong hold and locked-in look. “It’s great for people with very thick hair,” she says. “It gives the highest hold out of our three pomades. A thick, coarse-textured person would really benefit from a product like this that has hold, yet is still good and nourishing for hair and scalp.”

At Church California, our mission is to make products that are good for you and the planet, and also out perform synthetic grooming products in every way (we call it "naturally high performance"). That said, hair type is a major contributor to how well a product will work for you. We're constantly evolving our product line based upon customer and barber/stylist feedback, and hair type needs are as much of a consideration as hair style needs. If you have questions or needs for your specific hair type, we encourage you to reach out to us. We'd love to hear from you!